![]() ![]() If the squeezer body is continued to be held perpendicular to the skin, the result is that one side of a flush rivet will always sit proud while the other side is slightly recessed. So now one must decide if this angle will be applied to the factory or the shop head. This means that the dies will no longer be parallel. As pressure is applied, the yoke will shift. With little to no pressure applied the squeezer body is perfectly perpendicular to the yoke and the dies are nice and parallel. There's some play where the yoke attaches to the squeezer. I find that unless I'm planning on >100 rivets in a session, it's just easier to manually squeeze than to mess with bleeding it. I haven't used it for over a month now because of this. At that point I'll need to bleed the system again. ![]() I'll keep doing this for a few weeks before I'm unable to fully set a rivet without exceeding it's maximum rated pressure. The next day I'll have to turn up the air pressure some more to get it to fully set a rivet. My problem is that it works great for about a day. Once that is done properly, it works great. As others have mentioned it often takes bleeding twice to get all the air out. It's still much better than squeezing everything by hand, but mine has a few problems. I have the Numatx, and if I had it to do over again I would get a pneumatic squeezer instead. I figured if the regular hose bothered me I can always order it later. I didn't go for the hose upgrade since I was already spending more than a pneumatic squeezer. I saw the Flyboy guys at Oshkosh had a similar setup. I also built a small platform out of scrap plywood and 2x2's so the pedal and air/hydraulic intensifier don't move around and I put a handle on it so it is easy to locate. I will probably order one more flat set that is a length in between the two I currently have and that should minimize the number of times I need to swap out the rams. So far I have been able to use the short one most of the time. It does come with two different length rams. If it doesn't bottom out you won't get the force you need (same as any squeezer). Once you have that, you just need to make sure the sets bottom out (you'll see the yoke flex a bit). I clamped my squeezer head to the top of a step ladder to make sure there were no dips in the hydraulic hose while bleeding. ![]() ![]() I had to bleed it twice (I think using it some in between moved any remaining bubbles around). A good starting point I was given was 60psi for -3 and 85psi for -4. There are always trade offs.īasically you do some trial and error to figure out what pressure you need to squeeze a -3 and -4 rivet then you just always set your regulator to those pressures. You also control it with a foot pedal so it might be easier to use in tight spots, as long as you can get your foot to the pedal. In the end I bet you get good at that with the pneumatic squeezer so it probably isn't a huge deal. This way with the Numatx you don't have to adjust the set length for each different length of rivet. a pneumatic squeezer only hits it's force at the end of stroke. I chose it over a pneumatic squeezer due to the size and that it always squeezes with the same force vs. I recently purchased my Numatx and I have only done the practice kits with it, but I like it. ![]()
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