![]() But I don't recommend following that directly from me, as I haven't tried it! (EDIT!!: I did try it. ![]() For example, look at this Pignose G40V tube amp's schematic, you can see (as I've circled it) the master volume pot is pretty much the only connection to the power amp stage (the one with the 6L6 tubes). Some amps have the master volume knob right before the power amp in. This made it easy for me, because I just looked up the pin out for my big chip, found the input and that was my power amp in. In my case, I found two ominous looking chips that turned out to be two op amp chips, one smaller than the other (smaller one is the pre amp chip!). TIPS: Look for ominous looking chips, then google their numbers. I can't really tell you how to do this because it's going to be different for every amp. This step is the step where we find where the pre amp ends and the power amp begins. So be careful! (As you always should anyhow). I think it was when I was testing it that I did this. NOTE: Be careful with your wires, I broke one of the connectors for the power supply, this provided me with much anger/annoyance because I thought it was a problem with something I had meant to do. ![]() Then proceed to remove any other screws holding the board down, mine had two on the little heat sync thing connected to that black thing there. ![]() Now carefully remove the knobs (some amps have knobs that just push on, others have a set screw) and their nuts, also the input jack's nut. It turned out I could unplug the power supply and the speaker outs/headphone jack. Now examine your amps guts, see if you can unplug anything else off of the main amp board thing. Now we need to remove the screws (usually on the top of the amp, and around four or so) that hold in the amp head unit into the cabinet. The first step is going to be to unplug everything, the cord from the outlet, speaker, ect. ![]()
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